The most common mistake that stylists make is that they don't lift the hair enough. However, there are 2 important "buts" you need to be aware of: FIRST ISSUE: YOU NEED TO LIFT FIRST WITH A GOOD QUALITY BLEACH.īefore dumping in colors to cancel other colors, it is far better to first lift the hair up as far as it will go. The way you do this is by adding in these "mix" tones to your target color. Q: How does this Help me As a Colorist in a Color Correction Situation? You can add in Green, Blue and Violet to color correct unwanted tones in the hair. Violet cancels out yellow on hair that has been lifted to light blonde & blonde. Green cancels out red on hair that has been lifted to brown or light brown.īlue cancels out orange on hair that has been lifted to dark blonde. You lifted a customer’s hair from dark brown to brown but there is still red left in the hair. You lifted a customer’s hair from dark brown to blonde but there is still orange left in the hair. You lifted a customer’s hair with bleach but there is still yellow left in the hair. The following color neutralization issues are very common in a salon: They are what you get when you bleach or lift hair.
Q: How do underlying pigments come into it? This Chart below shows the underlying pigments that you get when you bleach hair.Īs you can also see, the undercoat or brassiness that you get is directly connected with how well you have lifted the hair.Īs you lift the hair up lighter and lighter, the underlying pigment changes from orange, to orange-yellow, to yellow, and then palest yellow.Īs a stylist you should be very familiar with these underlying pigments.
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Hair by Elona Taki WATCH HOW TO USE GREEN TO COUNTERACT RED & MAGENTAĬOLOR WHEEL PRINCIPLES IN ACTION PART C - USING GREEN TO CANCEL OUT MAGENTA, ORANGE & RED Hair by Elona Taki WATCH HOW TO USE BLUE BASED ASH BLONDE 7.1b & PURPLE BASED 7VV TO COUNTERACT YELLOW-ORANGEĬOLOR WHEEL PRINCIPLES IN ACTION PART B - USING BLUE AND PURPLE TO COUNTERACT YELLOW-ORANGE WATCH HOW TO USE A PURPLE BASED TONER & SHAMPOO TO COUNTERACT YELLOW HAIRĬOLOR WHEEL PRINCIPLES IN ACTION PART A - USING PURPLE TO COUNTERACT YELLOW They will help you achieve great hair color results - no matter what level your client's hair and how brassy it is!.Ugly Duckling toners and color correctors are powerfully pigmented with blue, purple, green and ash based pigments.Use the guide below to choose which color is the most appropriate for you.After you have done that, use the appropriate neutralizing colors to color-correct.Do this & almost all your color wheel problems will vanish away.
So bleaching the hair to lift it properly is therefore the most important first step for fighting red, orange, yellow & brassy hair.In general, it is a good idea to remember that color wheel problems occur because the hair has not been lifted enough.Violet, purple and purple based toners cancel out yellow and pale yellow.Blue and blue based colors and toners cancel out orange and yellow orange.Green and green-based ash cancel out red, magenta and orange.The color wheel shows which colors cancel out which.BULLET-POINT SUMMARY: COLOR WHEEL SECRETS FOR HAIR STYLISTS
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